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Historic Centre of Oporto

UNESCO World Heritage Site on 5 December 1996 Dominant Period(s)

Medieval, Modern, Contemporary

The Historic Centre of Oporto is the oldest area of the city of Oporto in Portugal, classified as a World Heritage Site since 1996.

The city of Oporto, located in the northern part of Portugal, is the seat of the municipality and district, and covers an area of around 40 km². Located on the right bank of the River Douro, close to its mouth, the city’s physiognomy is characterised by simple houses overlooking the Ribeira and crowded along the hills, where the granite towers of the churches stand out.

Its history dates back to ancient times and goes hand in hand with the formation of the country itself and Portuguese culture. The geography of the place has conditioned its formation and development, always linked to a region where the river itself is an economic vector, a communication hub and an aggregating element. In addition to the important values evidenced by the architecture and the surrounding landscape, Oporto has its own identity, a reflection of human experiences over time, which is reflected in its own Historic Centre and makes it a living hub, this being one of the main criteria that led it to be classified as a World Heritage Site.

Today, the historic area is practically unchanged and free of modern buildings. This older, more uniform part of the city includes the parishes of Miragaia, Vitória, S. Nicolau and Sé, which are generally located within the Fernandina wall (14th century) and adjacent areas whose built heritage has medieval characteristics or has been enhanced by significant later works.

These include the block and Passeio das Virtudes, the Clérigos Tower and Church, Rua 31 de Janeiro and the area around the S. João Theatre and the Civil Government.

The surroundings of this medieval area, although more recent, are also rich from a historical and artistic point of view, and include: to the east, the Fontainhas and Guindais slopes; to the north, the Avenida dos Aliados and its blocks, which include the Praças de D. João I, da Trindade, Filipa de Lencastre and Gomes Teixeira; to the north-east, the Hospital de Santo António; and to the west, the Alfândega and Vale das Virtudes areas.

Also included in the classification were the Serra do Pilar Monastery in Gaia (on the other bank of the River Douro) and the D. Luís Bridge.

Historical Characterisation

In an urban fabric consolidated over many centuries, archaeological remains are bringing to light the testimonies of Cale, a Bronze Age settlement.

Strategically positioned and well defended by walls on the hill of the Cathedral, the centrepiece of which was a religious building (today the cathedral), it had at its base, by the river bank, another nucleus, directly related to fishing activities. This was called Portus Cale and gave rise to the very name of Portugal.

Successively reorganised during Romanisation and the barbarian and Muslim periods of the High Middle Ages, it was the cradle of the territory of the Condado Portucalense, dismembered from the kingdom of León and passed on as a dowry at the time of the marriage of D. Teresa to Count D. Henrique of Burgundy, the parents of D. Afonso Henriques, the first king and founder of Portugal. During this period, Oporto had its first charter, given in 1120 by Bishop Hugo, who had received the town from Teresa.

During the first dynasty, there was development and population and urban expansion, based on remarkable port activity, translated into regular contacts with England, Normandy and Flanders. This prosperity, which stemmed from its role as an administrative, religious and economic centre on a regional scale, was accentuated from the end of the 14th century onwards, due to the weight of the mercantile bourgeoisie, and led to the construction of new walls with the aim of connecting and protecting the two poles of urban growth (Sé and Cais). This bourgeoisie played an active role in defending the interests of King João I and Portugal against Castile during the political crisis of 1383-1385. For this reason, it was in Oporto’s Cathedral that the king, founder of the Avis dynasty, married Filipa de Lencastre on 2 February 1387, residing there for long periods of time. It was in this context that Prince Henry the Navigator was born in 1394.

Oporto’s bourgeoisie was strengthened by the wealth and dynamism of the Jewish community living in the city and it was King João I himself who set up the new Jewish quarter in Morro da Vitória. This is why important support came from here for the expedition to Ceuta in 1415 (marking the beginning of Portuguese expansion), support that the Infante himself had personally come to the city to ask for. Likewise, many names that were later linked to the Discoveries are related to the history of the city and its region, namely Afonso Gonçalves Baldaia (discoverer of the African coast), Pero Vaz de Caminha (official chronicler of the “finding” of Brazil in 1500) and Brás Cubas (founder of the city of Santos in Brazil).

Following in the tradition of the dynamics of the Age of Discovery, Oporto has always remained a prosperous and active city. The initiatives of each historical moment have left their mark on the city’s territory, from the exuberant Baroque architecture that bears witness to the vitality of the Oporto wine trade in the 18th century, which from then on made the city rapidly expand its boundaries, to the contemporary interventions that articulate the new areas with the rehabilitation of the historic centre, passing through the marks of 19th century progress, linked to the transformations of Liberalism and Regeneration and expressed in iron architecture and industrialisation.

To complete the picture of Oporto’s historic centre, as well as the city’s cultural life, we recommend a visit to the Soares dos Reis National Museum, where you can see a remarkable collection of 16th century paintings (where Flemish influences stand out) and an important collection of 19th century paintings. Other important museums are the Museu da Irmandade de S. Pedro de Miragaia, the Sé do Oporto (sacred art), the Casa Museu Guerra Junqueiro, the Museu Romântico da Macieirinha and the Casa de Serralves (modern art).

The City in Medieval and Modern Times

Linked to the memory of the Infante and the Discoveries, the old neighbourhoods located inside the 14th century medieval wall, despite later modifications, present a medieval urban morphology in the tangle of streets and are home to the main monuments and spaces that marked the city’s physiognomy in the 14th and 15th centuries and were the scene of important events of the time.

The hill of the Cathedral stands out for the antiquity of the complex and the monumentality of the great cathedral, where we can admire the architectural design of the 12th century, visible inside and on the façade (later renovated in the 18th century) and in the Gothic centre of the cloister with an elegant triple arcade and the chapel of St John the Baptist, which houses the tomb of the knight of Malta, João Gordo. In the old churchyard, now the Cathedral grounds, we can see the Episcopal Palace, a large architectural complex built in 1737 on the site of the original 13th century residence, the tower of D. Pedro Pitões (also known as the City Tower), a square Gothic building with two floors and ogival openings on the façade, and the ruins of the old Town Hall, which has recently been consolidated and still has a medieval appearance.

Some traces of the primitive wall, which correspond to the defensive system built during the High Middle Ages and reinforced in the 12th century, can be seen in the built elements and in the layout of the streets, particularly in Calçada de Vandoma and along Rua de D. Hugo.

The ambience of the whole complex that rises along the hill in the area surrounding the cathedral is popular in nature, with traditional markets and constant occupation of the streets, which are seen as a collective space for social interaction. Escadas das Verdades is the link to the riverside area.

In Ribeira and Barredo, part of the parish of S. Nicolau, we are in the heart of the river area. The riverfront is made up of narrow façades, with arcades on the ground floor, still retaining many medieval elements and a physiognomy characteristic of the harbour centres of the Age of Discovery.

Barredo’s narrow alleys create a labyrinthine fabric, with some of the oldest examples standing out, such as the Rua de Baixo Tower, which originally dates from the 13th century and still has medieval features.

Praça da Ribeira and Largo do Terreiro are now open spaces on the Ribeira and Estiva quays, where cod warehouses used to stand and where the old Carvão Wicket, which opened onto the 14th century wall, has been preserved.

In Rua da Reboleira, many typical late medieval and sixteenth-century buildings survive, especially the street fronts, where façades 55 and 59 are located.
The toponymy of the streets tells us about their ancient history and in Rua da Alfândega, Casa do Infante or Alfândega Velha is well worth a visit. Currently being investigated through documents and archaeology, it is a quadrangular structure corresponding to the old courtyard connecting two towers, built between 1325 and 1354 and destined by King Afonso IV to be the seat of the Oporto Almoxarifado.

According to tradition, Infante D. Henrique was born here, at a time when this whole part of the city was occupied by public buildings linked to the Court and mercantile activity. Rua Nova, which today is called Rua Infante D. Henrique in memory of the navigator prince, was opened on the initiative of King João I. Surrounding Praça do Infante, the Church of St Francis reminds us of the city’s links to the Avis dynasty.

A remarkable example of mendicant Gothic architecture, it was part of the large Franciscan convent where Queen Filipa de Lencastre, mother of King Henrique, sometimes stayed. Evidence of the Manueline and Renaissance periods is still significant in this temple.

In the Massarelos area, there is still a medieval pavement and the Brotherhood of Souls, founded in the year of the Infante’s birth (1394), next to the small chapel of the Holy Body, by seafarers, shipyard workers and boat builders.

Within the perimeter of the medieval city, corresponding to the main centres of settlement at the time, there are other areas, especially Cedofeita with its austere Romanesque church and the Tower of Pedro Sem, built by King Afonso IV and now part of the Terenas Palace or Mitra. Scattered around are some vestiges of the medieval enclosure and its gates, namely the well-known Oporto da Cidade, a quadrangular construction with two floors, which can be seen on Rua de S. Sebastião and the section around the convent of Santa Clara. The convent’s church has a beautiful Manueline portal.

Of the city’s Jewish quarters, which were large, wealthy and involved in the projects of the city and the kingdom, we are left with the streets of S. Bento and Escadinhas da Esnoga, which were part of the Olival Jewish quarter, located next to the gate in the wall with the same name.

In the second half of the 16th century and the beginning of the following period, Oporto saw its built heritage enriched with new buildings inspired by the new trend emerging from the Council of Trent and following Mannerist lines. Examples of this affiliation are the Casa do Cabido and the churches – dos Grilos, de S. João Novo, S. Bento da Vitória and dos Carmelitas. It was at this time that notable Baroque carvings began to decorate the interiors of the city’s churches, and their development continued for around 150 years. The first examples are the aforementioned convents of St Francis and St Clare, as well as the Church of St Peter of Miragaia.

The 17th and 18th centuries saw the spread of residential palaces, reflecting the opulence of Oporto’s high nobility and bourgeoisie. These include: the palatial houses in Rua das Flores – of the Cunha Pimenteis, the Constantinos, the Sousa e Silva and Manuel Figueiroa Pinto (or Companhia Velha); the palace in Rua de Belmonte (next to the previous one) – of the Pacheco Pereira; or the Árvore Cooperative building (Albuquerques house) on Passeio das Virtudes.

Major public works during this period include: the reconstruction and enhancement of the Customs House in 1667; the creation of a circulation system linking Rua da Alfândega Velha to Rua Nova and the Fonte Taurina; and the reconstruction of the Prison and Court of Appeal in 1765 to a design by Eugénio dos Santos.

The eighteenth-century period is extremely rich from an artistic point of view, with renowned masters entering Portugal, including Nicolau Nasoni. The Clérigos Church and Tower is an exponent of this master’s architecture and an authentic business card for the city.

Oporto’s Baroque style, which emphasised the contrasts of light and dark on the façades of churches and palaces and exuberantly decorated the interiors of temples, made a particular mark on the city and lasted beyond the introduction of neoclassical forms, as in the case of the

Carmo church. Other important works in the classified historic area that are stylistically Baroque are those carried out in the Cathedral, the churches of Santo Ildefonso, Misericórdia, Recolhimento do Ferro, Nossa Senhora da Vitória, São Nicolau, Terço and dos Carmelitas.

In the third quarter of the 18th century, with the Almadas, there was a new model of urban expansion, of the radial type. A long artery was opened – Rua do Almada – and other new axis – Rua da Cedofeita and Rua de Santa Catarina – which articulated with other secondary streets. At this point, large arches were opened in the walls bordering the quay.

The English influence that had been felt since the mid-17th century was reinforced by the Methwen Treaty and the production and commercialisation of Oporto wine. This wine owes its fame to a fortunate coincidence: two Englishmen added brandy to preserve it and transformed it into a precious nectar that would soon become world famous. The characteristics of this excellent wine are also naturally due to the geomorphological conditions of its region of origin – the schist slopes of the Alto Douro. After its first stage of manufacture, the wine is placed in oak casks and, until relatively recently, was transported in the typical rabelo boats that travelled down the Douro to the storage cellars in Gaia, opposite Oporto, where it is aged and acquires its final characteristics.

Testimony to the strong English influence in the city is the existence of private clubs with grand traditions and elegant gardens. Other examples, introduced by the British, are the common neo-Palladian buildings, or the Ribeira arches, opened to support the unloading of goods and modelled on London quays.

Neoclassical architecture has notable examples in the Historic Centre of Oporto, namely: the Santo António Hospital, the English Trading Company, the Relação Prison, the Civil Government, the Faculty of Sciences, the Trindade Church and the Terceiros de S. Francisco Church.

The city in contemporary times

The city’s historical weight in the 19th century is significant. It was involved in several important events, among them: the revolution of 1820, the siege of Oporto and the republican uprising of 31 January. After the liberal revolution, Oporto experienced a period of urban expansion, which went beyond the Historic Area, although new work was also carried out here. It was a period of improvement that encompassed various urban sectors, from transport to economic activity centres and the creation of leisure areas, etc.

There were some innovations in the architecture of the houses, such as the so-called “houses of the Brazilians” (the new rich who had emigrated and made their fortune in Brazil), which generally included stained glass windows, inlays, clay figures and exterior tiles. Gardens and public squares became common in the city – Jardim da Cordoaria, Praça do Infante (with an evocative statue) and Praça da Batalha. Major buildings from this period include: the Palácio da Bolsa, in neoclassical style, which includes a beautifully designed hall with a neo-Arab revivalist flavour; the Ferreira Borges Market, an example of iron architecture; notable bridges, also in iron, for crossing the River Douro – D. Luís, used from 1886 and designed by Teophile Seyrig (a former partner of Gustavo Eiffel), and D. Maria, built by the engineer of the famous Paris Tower.

The pillars of a suspension bridge (decommissioned in 1887), which was designed to replace the old Ponte das Barcas (in 1809 it gave way to the weight of thousands of people who drowned fleeing Napoleonic troops), remain.

Transport naturally underwent an evolution in the 19th century that was seen in other major European cities.

Trams still run along the old riverside line.

At the beginning of the 20th century, there was a trend towards French-style architecture. This is largely due to Marques da Silva, two of whose main works are the S. Bento Station (1900) with magnificent tile panels by Jorge Colaço, and the S. João Theatre (1911). There were a few buildings that showed a taste for what was known as Art Nouveau, including the buildings in Rua Galeria de Paris and Rua Cândido dos Reis. The spirit of republican renewal gave rise to other projects in Oporto, including the Avenida dos Aliados, with the Town Hall building at the northern end (built between 1920 and 1957).

Heritage highlights

  • Cathedral (Romanesque, 12th century; Gothic, 14th century; Baroque, 17th century)
  • Fernandina Wall - (Gothic, 14th century) Of this ancient fortification, the sections of Santa Clara and S. João Novo and the Coal Wicket on the Ribeira Quay remain
  • Church of St Francis - (Gothic, 14th century; Baroque, 17th and 18th century)
  • Casa do Infante - former medieval customs house
  • Carmo Church - (baroque and rococo, 18th century)
  • Clérigos Church and Tower - (baroque, 18th century)
  • S. João Theatre - (neoclassical, 19th century)
  • Palácio da Bolsa - (neoclassical, romanticism/neo-Arab revival, 19th century)
  • D. Luís I Bridge - a remarkable example of iron architecture (19th century)